Paris Fashion Week Opens Today: What to Watch for Spring 2027

Paris Fashion Week opens today, Monday, September 28, starting the final and busiest stretch of Fashion Month for the Spring/Summer 2027 season. The official calendar published by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode runs through October 6. Across the nine days, the program lists 68 runway shows and 33 presentations, which makes this edition the largest stop of the month. Milan wrapped its Spring/Summer 2027 edition the same morning, so there is no breathing room between the two cities. Milan's closing days included Giorgio Armani's "Evolution" show, the house's first major collection since its founder's death, as covered in our recap of the Milan finale.

New York, London, and Milan have already set their tone for the season. Paris Fashion Week now gets the last word, and it usually matters more than the others. The month has already produced its share of talking points, from Drake's OVO anniversary line to the debate over Vogue World's robot runway. Now the conversation moves to Paris, where the houses on the Paris Fashion Week schedule decide which of the season's early ideas survive into stores.

Monday opens with new names

Julie Kegels opens the official runway schedule in the early afternoon, followed by Weinsanto at 4 p.m., Maxhosa Africa at 5 p.m., Hodakova at 6 p.m., and Matières Fécales at 7 p.m., according to the published show schedule. Paris Fashion Week's calendar also lists L'Oréal Paris's Le Défilé at 9 p.m., the beauty brand's large-scale public show staged alongside the official program. Beyond the runway, the week carries exhibitions, house events, and trade shows such as Tranoï Paris, giving independent labels a parallel stage to the big houses.

Two debuts will be watched closely

Drew Henry presents his first collection as Courrèges's creative director on Wednesday, September 30 at 10:30 a.m. Henry was appointed in March after serving as senior design director at Burberry, and he succeeds Nicolas Di Felice, according to Business Today's calendar preview. Kai Nesselrath shows his first collection as Carven's design director on Thursday, October 1 at 12:30 p.m., following his appointment in June after a decade at Saint Laurent, according to Revelence. Both designers arrived during a year of rapid creative turnover across European luxury, which puts extra attention on their first outings.

Henry shares his Wednesday with a dense lineup: The Row, Balmain, Dries Van Noten, Stella McCartney, Vaquera, Acne Studios, and Tom Ford all show the same day. Nesselrath's Thursday is equally crowded, with Chloé, Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Schiaparelli, and Isabel Marant on the schedule. Neither debut gets a quiet room, which is typical of how Paris Fashion Week treats new creative directors.

Familiar names return, a few sit out

Valentino returns to the Paris runway after presenting its Fall 2026 collection in Rome, while Maison Margiela is back after staging its previous show in Shanghai, according to Business Today's calendar preview. Sacai, Casablanca, Ester Manas, and Christopher Esber also rejoin the official calendar this season. Two notable names are missing. Rabanne is sitting out while Olivier Rousteing, appointed creative director in July, prepares his debut for March 2027. McQueen is absent from Paris Fashion Week as well, having returned to the London schedule, according to Glam Observer.

The days that will set the tone

Tuesday, September 29 is the first heavyweight day of Paris Fashion Week, with Dior in the early afternoon, Maison Margiela at 5:30 p.m., and Saint Laurent closing the night, according to Glam Observer's calendar breakdown. Friday, October 2 brings Loewe, Issey Miyake, Lanvin, Ottolinger, Givenchy, and Victoria Beckham. Saturday, October 3 includes Celine, Vivienne Westwood, Hermès, and Comme des Garçons. Sunday moves Miu Miu to a weekend slot alongside Valentino, Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Chanel holds its Monday evening slot on October 5 at 8 p.m., and Louis Vuitton brings the week to a close the following Tuesday.

What to watch in the clothes

Vogue's early forecast for the season points toward more expressive dressing, with clashing colors, romantic transparency, draping, utility details, peplums, and stronger use of orange, according to a pre-season trend report citing the magazine. The broader mood is a move away from ultra-controlled quiet luxury toward something more personal and deliberately imperfect. Paris Fashion Week is where those ideas either harden into trends or fade. As the preview put it, the city tends to decide which version survives.

Whether that shift shows up on the Paris Fashion Week runways this week is the open question. The answer starts arriving today. Louis Vuitton closes the calendar on Tuesday, October 6 at 6:30 p.m., ending the Spring/Summer 2027 edition of Paris Fashion Week.